Any of the designs shown on the Pots by the Yard page are easily replicated on any size pot. Designs may vary due to pot size. Prices are determined by pot size and media used.

SCROLL DOWN to place an order.

If you have questions regarding your specific soil test results and how to interpret them, feel free to email me directly (Turfgal01 @  windstream.net) or post your questions here!

Happy Spring Everyone!!!

Jodi

TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!

If you have a comment intended as a ping back, post it here please..for the sake of my sanity, so I don’t arbitrarily delete your post. Items posted in the wrong category without a relevant question or comment will not be moved, but rather deleted. So post in the appropriate section please!

Posts that do not contain relevant comments will be deleted. TurfGal will not allow pornographic posts, links etc. on this site, all posts containing objectionable materials will be deleted.

Thanks,

Jodi

TurfGal~Happiness By the Yard!

Outdoor lighting can accentuate your existing landscape to make it not only more beautiful, but safer as well. Safety is always a factor at your home or office, and professionally installed outdoor lighting can give you peace of mind. Law enforcement statistics show that a well lit home or office is less likely to become a target.

Landscape lighting can also make a substantial difference in the appearance and value of your home or office . The reasons for installing lighting are as varied as the types of lighting available. Security, dependability, safety and affordable elegance is what outdoor lighting is all about.

There are three main types of outdoor lighting systems used today, low-voltage, high-voltage and solar powered.  Choosing the right type of lighting for your individual situation is largely based on cost effectiveness, aesthetics and the desired end result.

Solar powered can be the most inexpensive of them all. They are basically lighting fixtures pre-wired, in-line and attached to a solar panel. This type of lighting is readily available at home improvement and hardware stores, as well as large discount department stores. Most of these types of lights come with a photo sensitive eye that turns the lights off and on based on the available environmental light. They can be easily installed by homeowners and if installed and maintained properly, can make a marked improvement in the overall nighttime appearance of any landscape. These types of lighting systems generally are not as durable and do not last as long as other types of lighting.

Low-voltage lighting is also readily available at the same types of stores. These lights can be more expensive based upon the types of lighting fixtures chosen as well as the number of fixtures to be installed. These systems can be pre-wired, in-line, or can come as individual lighting fixtures. They are then then attached to a power cord that must have an outside power source such as an outdoor GFI plug-in.  Some of these systems also require a transformer that reduces household current to 12 volts, making the system more efficient and cost effective to operate. These can either have a photo sensitive eye, or they can be attached to a timer.

High voltage lighting is the last of the three. This type of lighting involves installation of lighting fixtures that are separate from each other, increasing the flexibility of the types of fixtures used, the application of the specific light as well as placement of the fixtures. The basic fixtures themselves may start out at a reasonable price, but depending on features and appearance, can go up in price. This type of system also requires installation of underground wiring and installation of a timer/transformer unit, and depending on the number of fixtures you are installing, the transformers can get quite pricey. However, if you want to create a specific effect with flood lights, directional lights or very specific mood lighting, high voltage may be the way to go. Yes, it costs more to install, but it is less expensive to maintain overall, far more flexible in application. These fixtures are sturdier, last far longer, the bulbs as well as many components of the fixtures themselves can be replaced and you can achieve a most elegant and professional result.

If you have questions or comments regarding outdoor lighting, feel free to post away! Marty will be available to answer questions, help you with installations and repairs or even schedule a free demo of various outdoor lighting products he can install for you.

Look for the New Release “Installing Low-Voltage Outdoor Lighting the Easy Way “, a comprehensive instruction guide to walk you through every step of selecting and installing a low-voltage outdoor lighting system!

I love gardening! There is nothing as satisfying as sitting on your deck on a lovely spring morning and basking in the glory of all your hard work. Flowers in bloom, bees and hummingbirds dancing from flower to flower…sipping coffee and just taking it all in. I live for those tiny moments of serenity.

I am however, an amateur gardener. I know a lot about flowers and mulch, soil testing and balancing, sure. My flowers know far more than I, and they teach me new things on a daily basis. THAT, is what makes me an amateur.

If you have questions about gardening, photos you would like to share of gardens you love, your own included…or just want to post a rant, feel free! I will write articles when I can on garden related topics and post them here !

There are many irrigation products and companies out there to chose from, and the choices can be confusing and overwhelming. Marty Ludwig, owner of Oasis Sprinklers in Columbia is a certified irrigation professional. He is certified by both Rain Bird and Toro for installation and repairs of in-ground irrigation systems. I have worked with Marty on many projects over the past 10 years or so. I have found him to be reliable, honest and extremely knowledgeable. If it is an irrigation related issue, he can help you sort it out. Now to hear from Marty himself…

Greetings! I am Marty the Owner of Oasis Sprinklers here in Columbia. We’ve been in business since 1992 and have seen the irrigation industry grow in popularity over the years. Back in the early days – when men were men and women were women - a sprinkler system was a luxury item for only discriminating homeowners. These were systems installed by burly pipe fitters from the Nordic countries with names like Bjorn and Sven. Cast iron pipe was the material of choice and they had a twofold purpose, one of which was to water the yard, and the other, to prohibit unwanted vandals from gaining access onto the property at night. These high rise yard sentinels could impale a would-be trespasser and leave them to the elements until the gardener stumbled upon them in the morning. But, with the onset of plastics and electronics, the manufacturers of irrigation products saw the opportunity to market their wares to the masses. Thus, the modern sprinkler system came to be.

As you already know, with our climate here in the Midlands, watering our lawns is a necessity if we want them to survive. The best way to accomplish this is to let Mother Nature take care of it, but, when we get our dry spells, which occur frequently, we have to step in and protect those lawns ourselves. So, if you’re one of those guys – or girls- that like to take matters in to your own hands this is where, hopefully, we at Oasis can be of some help. If you’re finally fed up with pulling hoses around the yard (and you know who you are) be like those homeowners on the Do It Yourself shows, roll up your sleeves, put on your safety glasses - just kidding- and welcome yourself to the wonderful world of irrigation! It’s not rocket science but it takes some mechanical ability and some time. We’ll try to give you some shortcuts, helpful hints, and things to watch out for – What? Wait…what fire ants?-

With a bit of luck and a little elbow grease, after a couple of days, you can sit back, open your favorite beverage, and watch the dance of the sprinkler heads!

Marty

Irrigation Basics
Too much water is just a bad as not enough. The most efficient way to water a lawn or beds is to apply water when they begin to show signs of stress from lack of water. Lots of people think an irrigation timer is a “set it and forget it” device. Not entirely. Irrigation systems need to be carefully calibrated to insure you are not over watering or under watering. You also need to periodically adjust your timers depending on rain or times of drought. Rain sensors are a great tool to avoid over watering. I know you have seen lots of systems watering turf while it is raining. Not good.

Over watering turf and beds opens a whole new can of worms, and is the cause of the majority of fungal problems. Some grasses and plants can tolerate lots of water with no problem. Great. Others…not so much. That’s when the trouble starts.

Another critical element is the TIME you are watering. For best results you should always water early in the morning. It gives the grass and plants ample time to absorb the water and dry off before the heat of the day. Watering in the evenings causes water to sit and does not give excess water a chance to evaporate , this is a huge contributing factor to turf and shrub disease. Watering in the afternoon, during peak heat is also bad. The water droplets that are on tender leaves act as a magnifying glass, amplifying the suns heat thus leaving “burn” marks on your shrubs and turf.

With Summer comes the lawn pest season. Rather than spray and hope for the best, there is an easier, more effective and efficient way to find out what bugs you have and if they are the cause of your turf problems. If you have bare areas in your turf that just will not grow, and it seems to be getting worse over time (and you think some sort of bug is responsible) perform a Soap Flush or Insect Flush. It will bring insects to the surface of your turf for easy collection and identification. This allows you to get an accurate representation of what insects are present in your turf, if they are harmful or beneficial and if treatment is necessary.

Properly done, a soap flush is a very valuable tool for monitoring and identifying lawn pests and can help prevent the unnecessary use of pesticides. Attention to a few details is required to get the most accurate results.

First, make sure the lawn’s soil was well watered at least 1 day in advance of performing the soap flush. Mole Crickets, for example are very mobile, following soil moisture and have been found as deep as five feet in the soil. Therefore, a soap flush or any type of chemical treatment would have no effect on them if the soil were very dry.

Materials Needed:

Dish washing liquid

1 gallon empty, clean milk jug

1 clean bucket

1 Sprinkling can

rubber/latex gloves

several small zip-lock baggies

tweezers or garden hand spade

paper and pen

Performing the Soap Flush

1. Locate several areas in your turf where insect activity is suspected but all the grass is not dead yet. Mark off a 4 square foot area. (2 feet wide X 2 Feet tall)

2. Prepare the solution by mixing 1 1/2 ounces of dish washing liquid in 2 gallons of water.

3. Apply the mixture to the 4 square foot area you previously marked off with a sprinkling can and wait 5 minutes to see what emerges.

4. Wearing gloves and using tweezers, collect the insects carefully and drop them into the zip-lock baggies for later identification, try to keep like insects together. Write down either on the baggies or on paper how many of each insect you found in your 4 square foot area.

Don’t bother collecting spiders, earthworms, small beetles, or centipedes. These insects are harmless to turf.

Repeat the steps in several problem areas to get an accurate picture of what is happening in which location in your yard. Keep all insects collected in area 1 together, all bags from area 2 together, and so on.

Do be concerned if you see Mole Crickets, Caterpillars or Chinch Bugs, as they are likely feeding on your lawn. But don’t panic, seeing just 1 or 2 of these does not mean you have to run out and buy hundreds of dollars in chemicals. Different pests have different “thresholds” that warrant treatment.

For instance, if an average of 2-4 mole crickets are found in the different areas of your turf, then treatment is probably warranted. If only 1 or 2 appear, it probably is not, but should be monitored to prevent infestation.

Mole Cricket

Chinch Bug

Twolined Spittlebug

*This method is just one way of performing a Soap Flush properly.

For more information refer to S.C.’s Most Wanted Turf Pests Vol. 1 and Introduction to Chemical Application Vol. 1.

To mulch, or not to mulch, that is the question.

Mulch is an absolute necessity! It serves a variety of purposes;

•it adjusts temperature by helping soil retain more heat in spring and fall, and by keeping soil cool and even out temperature swings during hot summer conditions.

•it will control weeds by blocking the sunlight from reaching the soil.

•it retains water by slowing evaporation- 10 to 25 percent reduction in soil moisture loss from evaporation

•it adds organic matter and vital nutrients to the soil through the gradual breakdown of the mulch material itself.

•it will help to repel insects.

•it will incrementally improve growing conditions by reflecting sunlight upwards to the plants.

•it helps erosion control by protecting the soil from rain and preserves moisture.

•it aids in sediment control by slowing runoff velocity

There are a variety of mulch materials available for use in our area.

•Organic residues (cow manure) - leaves, hay, straw, shredded bark, whole bark nuggets, sawdust, shells, wood chips, municipal sludge, etc. Many of these materials also act as a direct composting system, such as the mulched clippings of a mulching lawn mower. There are many differing opinions on what to use.

•Compost - This relies on fully composted material. The weed seed must have been eliminated, otherwise the mulch will actually produce weeds.

•Rubber mulch - made from recycled tire rubber. This however, does not break down or add nutrients to your soil.

•Synthetic Pine-straw -  Yep, they have this too! Again, it will last longer, but it must be applied rather thick, (4-6″) to be an effective weed barrier. I am not a real big fan of using synthetic or rubber mulches as they don’t degrade and add anything back to your soil. This means regular fertilization will be required.

•Organic sheet mulch - Various products developed as a biodegradable alternative to plastic mulch.

•Rock and gravel can also be used as a mulch. In northern climates the heat retained by rocks will extend the growing season. In Southern climates, it can produce negative results by holding too much heat thereby drying the soil.

Straw Mulch

Mulch made from straw is generally lighter and easier to use than bark mulches, with the added advantages of being biodegradable and neutral in pH. Straw mulch tends to additionally have higher moisture retention and weed controlling properties than other mulches. The draw back is that is does degrade faster than wood mulches, so you will need to “top off” your mulch more often.

Application

Mulch can be applied any time of the year. However, the best time to mulch is late spring after the soil has warmed. Early spring application will delay soil warming and possibly plant growth. It is not necessary to remove the mulch when you fertilize. Apply the fertilizer over the mulch — nutrients will move with water to the roots below. Mulch serves initially to warm the soil by helping it retain heat. This allows early seeding and transplanting of plants, and encourages faster growth. Organic mulches should be applied anywhere from 2-6″ in depth for best result.

How much mulch will I need?

Measure all your plant beds and multiply the length X width of each bed area. I like to square off areas as it makes the process easier. Once you have all your areas measured, just add them together for a total number of square feet of bed space. Use the table below to calculate the mulch you will need at the thickness you desire. Keep in mind your mulch does the best job if it is a minimum of 2″ deep. I have found best results with a depth of 4″ or so. It does not need replacing as often, it can be turned over with a pitch fork if it starts to fade, thereby extending the life of your mulch, it is a much better weed barrier if it is thicker, and that means less work for you. It hold water so much better, and if you are on “city water”, that saves you money! Not to mention, in times of drought, you can water on your assigned day and not have to worry about your plants drying out as your mulch is still watering when you are not!

Special Notes:

PROBLEMS WITH MULCH:

WARNING; Arsenic levels HIGH in ground (red) dyed mulch products.

Recently there have been some developments with arsenic in some (red) dyed mulch products.  I know that in Florida, it has been a HUGE controversy because arsenic is used in treating lumber products, scrap treated wood products are then “recycled” into mulch and dyed…the new mulch complete with high levels of arsenic, is installed in beds near homes, day cares, businesses…and eventually, the arsenic ends up finding its’ way into the soil, among other places.  To be sure you are not using a product containing ground pressure treated wood products, read the bag, it should tell you if construction debris has been used. If you are still unsure, call the manufacturer.  Please watch this informative video:

http://www.floridamulchonline.com/p-poison.htm

This was produced by a South Florida News Channel.

Black plastic - is not recommended as a mulch material for landscape plants. While plastic will help control most weeds and conserve water, it does not allow water, nutrients, and air to move freely to the soil below. Plants often develop a very shallow root system that is more subject to damage during severe drought or cold weather.

Some gardeners feel that if mulch is good the more they use the better; however, the mulch layer can become too deep. Excessive application of mulch can result in a situation where roots are growing in the mulch and not in the soil. Over-mulched plants are easily damaged when herbicides and fertilizers are applied and during periods of drought stress. Mulching an area that is poorly drained can aggravate the condition.

An organic mulch creates a breeding grounds for insects and some fungi — most are harmless to trees and shrubs but may seem troublesome to gardeners. Their role is to break down the organic matter, which releases nutrients. Slugs are the most likely harmful pest. An application of wood ashes or diatomaceous earth at the base of the plant should provide some slug control. An alternative is to use slug baits or pellets.

In some cases, mice and voles may tunnel under mulch and cause damage by chewing the plant bark. Pull the mulch back 6 inches from the stems, applying a circle of crushed stone about 6 inches wide or a cylinder of 1/4-inch hardware cloth around the trunk may also be helpful.

It’s not as easy as digging a hole and plopping the plant in. You can do that with SOME plants, but definitely not all of them, especially if you are trying to create your “dream yard”.

I know you are all tired of hearing this, but again, research is your best bet here. What plant are you installing, is it a tree or a shrub? OK a flowering plant, is it annual or perennial? You have to know what it is before you can begin with any amount of certainty the poor thing won’t be dead the morning after you plant it.

How deep do I dig the hole?

Well, it’s pretty simple. Look at the plant in the container. See how high the dirt comes up on the stem of the plant. Optimally, when you put the plant in the hole, the dirt you cover it up with should NOT exceed that height. You can be REAL technical and measure the depth of the pot from the bottom of the pot to the top of the dirt in the pot, then stick a tape measure in your hole and adjust accordingly. No rocket science there folks.

Look at the container your plant is in. If it is a small container, for instance annual flowers, you most likely do NOT need to fertilize each hole, but the bed over all after all the flowers are installed. If it is in a medium size bucket, say with 3-7 gallon shrubs, my bet would be yes. Add some compost and manure to the hole before you drop it in. The richer the soil, the better the odds are that the roots will take off fast. My preferred method for small potted plants ( 1-3 gallon size) is 1 hand full each of cow manure and compost per hole, medium potted plants, (5-7 gallon size) 2 hand fulls each hole. The larger the plant, the more nutrients it needs, so you just go up from there.

Once you have the “soil amendments” (manure and compost) in the hole, add a bit of water from the hose and swirl it about. Try to stick some of the mixture to the walls of the hole, then drop in your plant. Bring the dirt in around the plant making sure it isn’t piled up high on the stem of the plant. Tamp it with your hands to stabilize it in the new hole. Take some of the excess dirt and create a small wall or water well , around the plant to hold water. This ensures that when you water, the water does not runoff to a lower area. Pack the “walls” of the “water well” tightly so that it holds the water. Water the new plant, leaves and all, then add water to the well, making sure the well is holding water. Let the well fill up slowly to the top and stop watering. Just add the mulch of your choice. Mulch selection is covered in the Mulch section.

Basic Tree planting pit with gravel for drainage.