Gardening is Blogtastic!
“Gardening is a kind of disease. It infects you, you cannot escape it. When you go visiting, your eyes rove about the garden; you interrupt the serious cocktail drinking because of an irresistible impulse to get up and pull a weed.” ~Lewis Gannit
I love gardening! There is nothing as satisfying as sitting on your deck on a lovely spring morning and basking in the glory of all your hard work. Flowers in bloom, bees and hummingbirds dancing from flower to flower…sipping coffee and just taking it all in. I live for those tiny moments of serenity.
I am however, an amateur gardener. I know a lot about flowers and mulch, soil testing and balancing, sure. My flowers know far more than I, and they teach me new things on a daily basis. THAT, is what makes me an amateur.
If you have questions about gardening, photos you would like to share of gardens you love, your own included…or just want to post a rant, feel free! I will write articles when I can on garden related topics and post them here !
September 28th, 2008 at 12:19 pm
Falling Back in 2008…
Fall is almost upon us. It is just about time to cut back Cannas, clean out the last of the weeds in my beds, and apply the heavy mulch for the onset of winter. The Cannas around my pool are still green, but in another 2-3 weeks, they will be fading out. Once they start browning I cut them off at the stems, about 6″ above the ground and gently fold over the stalks to prevent rotting. I will then clean out all the remaining weeds, which are pretty few and far between after all the hours I’ve logged this summer.
Once I get those beds done, it’s on to trimming my shrubs. I have some dwarf Boxwoods as a formal hedge row, only 1′ tall around part of my pool, as well as some palms I brought back up from one of my many trips to Florida. A few of the palms will over winter just fine outside, others MUST be brought in or covered to keep from freezing to death. I chose to put the cardboard palms in containers. That way I can keep them small and drag them in during the winter months. My Mother has a few cardboard palms in her yard in Fla., they are HUGE! But that is the tropical zone. They won’t get near that size here, thank goodness.
I have a date palm in a container at the pool as well. I fear the poor thing will never fruit, it is far too North for it to grow at its’ best. But it has beautiful and unusual foliage nonetheless. It will be dragged inside for the winter too.
The peach and cherry trees will need to be pruned soon as well. I will wait until after our first hard frost to do that. We got 9 peaches off our tree this year, the first fruit off this small 7 year old tree. I am looking forward to getting even more next year.
So much work to be done, and so little time. If I can get the time, and remember to, I will post some photos of my lovely palms! I am so proud of them…they are not supposed to even grow here, but somehow I am managing to keep them plugging along.
I will somehow have to allocate the time to get my garden winterized before I leave for Florida on October 18th. There is much to be done here, I can tell you that. Once I get to Florida, I will be writing at least one article on Orchids, they are my mothers’ passion, and she has some exquisite specimens. Hopefully I can get some photos and share those with you all as well!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 2nd, 2008 at 8:58 am
My wife has been ill and can’t garden at this time. She has some bulbs for Amaryllis and Iris that she wanted to get planted for spring. Do I need to plant those now, or wait until spring?
October 2nd, 2008 at 9:44 am
BlackJack;
We are so sorry to hear about your wife, hope she gets well soon.
Fall is the best time to plant both Iris and Amaryllis.
Amaryllis Instructions:
The first step when planting an amaryllis bulb is to soak the roots in lukewarm water for a few hours. Although this isn’t necessary it will help to soften up dry roots and jump-start the growth process. Be careful not to over soak the bulb as you can cause mold to form and the roots to rot. The hole size for one amaryllis should be approximately seven inches deep one or two inches wider than the top of the bulb. Since amaryllis roots are susceptible to root rot under soggy conditions, a well drained area is recommended. Fill the hole half way with an all-purpose potting soil that drains well yet retains moisture. Set the bulb on top of the soil and fill around it pressing firmly. The top third of the bulb should be left showing above the soil line. Do not cover the top of the bulb with soil, as it will rot when watered.
Iris Instructions:
To plant your irises, choose a sunny spot in well drained soil. Prepare the soil well, by spading or turning over the soil with a garden fork to a depth of at least 10 inches. Spread fertilizer and work it into the top of the soil. If possible, this should be done 2 to 3 weeks before you are ready to plant. A well prepared bed will result in better growth and more bloom. Don’t starve your irises or make them compete with nearby grass or weeds for food and water. Many gardeners, iris and otherwise, have a soil analysis made of their garden soil, then add the fertilizer of the kind and quantity the tests show the soil needs based on the types of plants that will be grown in that area.
The soil should be light. If it is clay soil, add very coarse sand and humus. Bone meal and a good garden fertilizer, low in nitrogen, are good for irises, but manure should be used only after it has aged for about a year. Otherwise, it may cause rot. The roots must be buried firmly to hold the plant in place, but the rhizome should be near the surface. An easy way to achieve this is to dig two trenches with a ridge between them, place the rhizome on the ridge and spread the roots carefully in the trenches. Be sure to firm the soil tightly and allow enough for settling to keep the rhizome above any possible standing water. Then fill the trenches with soil, letting the top surface of the rhizome be just barely beneath the surface of the soil.
If you have several plants, plant them at least a foot and a half apart, “facing” the same way. The rhizomes will then increase in the same direction, without crowding each other too soon.
*If you need more info, please don’t hesitate to ask…it sounds like you have a lot on your plate.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 3rd, 2008 at 8:21 am
Thanks for the info, that helps. I’m sure I will be checking back in, she has several gardening projects she wanted to get done, and I really don’t know what I’m doing…I can mow the grass and trim shrubs, but flowers were always her thing.
Jack
October 3rd, 2008 at 1:53 pm
BlackJack;
You are more than welcome. Good luck with your projects and all. Post questions anytime you get stuck or need some help!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 7th, 2008 at 3:20 pm
I planted dwarf cannas earlier this spring in my garden, do those need to be cut back and folded over like the larger ones? I’ve never had these before but they just look so nice!
October 7th, 2008 at 4:08 pm
ILovemyhusband;
Thanks for posting!
I have always cut both my large and dwarf cannas back and folded them over. It keeps the water from pooling inside the stalks and then rotting them over the winter months. Also, are you aware that cannas multiply? It is very possible that this spring you may need to divide them up. If you need help, let me know. I started with about 15 large and 10 dwarf cannas around my pool 5 years ago or so, I thin them out every spring and give some to family and friends. Mine have just about doubled in number every year since I planted them.
Jodi
TurfGal~ Happiness by the Yard!
October 14th, 2008 at 9:09 am
I am interested in starting a compost pile now for next Spring but don’t really know how to go about it. Can you offer me any advice before I start?
October 14th, 2008 at 9:34 am
Blakenme56;
Although I have not actually done any composting personally, there are many different ways to do it. I don’t know how involved you want to get. If you want to just make a “compost heap” that’s pretty easy, or you can actually purchase mechanical composters and 3 sided bins.
To make a pile, select an area that is close to your garden but out of sight as compost piles are not so pretty to look at.
You will need grass and yard clippings, a good shovel and a pitchfork, dried leaves and a hose that will reach the pile.
You don’t need a bin for the compost, but it will help keep it neat and in one designated area. If you don’t want to build a bin, you can accomplish the same goal by making a wire “cage” to contain the clippings. Just leave the cage or bin open on one side so that you can turn over the heap at least weekly.
The two basic elements that make up compost are green garden debris (grass clippings or old annuals) and brown garden debris (dry leaves). Green ingredients are high in nitrogen and brown materials are high in carbon. Adding too many greens can make the pile smell really awful. Don’t add animal waste, meats, oils, dairy, diseased plants, weeds that have gone to seed, or plants treated with pesticides or herbicides to your compost pile.
Compost piles with a balance of 1 part green waste to 2 parts brown materials break down fastest. The easiest way to achieve this balance is to add one garden forkful of green material to the pile, top it with two forkfuls of brown material, and mix them together. Continue adding greens and browns until the pile is at least 3 cubic feet (3 ft. x 3 ft. x 3 ft.). Piles of this size heat up quickly and break down faster.
Add in a shovelful of finished compost or garden soil to help the microbial activity in your pile. This will get things breaking down much faster than clippings alone.
Compost also needs the correct amount of moisture to breakdown. Compost with the right moisture level should feel like a damp, wrung-out sponge. Too much moisture can cause temperatures to drop inside the pile and make it stink. Too little moisture slows down the decomposition rate and keeps the pile from heating up. Check your compost pile’s moisture level once a week and adjust it if necessary by adding water to increase moisture or more browns to help dry the pile out.
Turn the pile once a week to move material from the outside of the pile inward. Turning also keeps the pile from compacting, which reduces airflow and slows down decomposition.
You should have finished compost in about two months or so. You’ll know your compost is finished when it no longer heats up and you can’t identify any of the original materials. The compost should be dark brown, moist and earthy smelling. If it smells funky or moldy, it is not ready. Mix or till the finished compost into your garden’s soil. You can use partially composted materials such as pine straw or wood mulches as long as they are not dyed or made with preserved wood products.
You can also build a very basic, passive compost system by simply piling up leaves, grass clippings and other yard waste into a heap in a secluded corner of your yard. The compost will be ready when the original ingredients are unrecognizable, usually in about 6 to 12 months. Compost at the bottom and middle of the pile typically “finishes” first.
I know that human hair and coffee grounds are great when used in compost piles. I also know that throwing some red worms into your compost pile will help things break down faster and add nutrient rich excrement back into your pile. Like I said, I don’t know how involved you want to get.
If you want to buy a composter and build your pile that way, look here;
http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/composter_landing.html?gclid=CJuP_srqppYCFRJexwodrzap4w
That’s about all the help I am on composting.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 14th, 2008 at 10:14 am
Human hair? I have heard coffee grounds but never human hair, why would hair be good for plants?
October 14th, 2008 at 10:54 am
ILovemyhusband;
Human hair is rich in Nitrogen, and adding it to your compost pile breaks the hair down faster. If you just sprinkle hair in your garden it will break down, but it takes time, so it is like a slow release nitrogen based fertilizer. It’s been used for a long time by gardeners as a form of natural pest control. It supposedly repels deer and rodents as well. But I can’t vouch for that as I have never tried it. If you can form some sort of relationship with a barber or beautician, you can bag the hair (keep it air tight) and then add it to your compost pile. I know of several people that add hair to their fruit and veggie gardens. It works miracles for them. Odd, True and Freaky, I know.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 15th, 2008 at 9:08 am
Great info. I think we are going to make the 3 sided wire bins, that seems to be about the easiest way to accomplish our goal. Thanks for the links to the composters, more than I really want to spend, but the worms are do-able!
October 16th, 2008 at 10:17 pm
Blakenme56;
Since you don’t mind the worm part, I thought of something else.
My husband is an avid fisherman. He started his own worm farm here several years ago. He took an old bathtub, filled it 1/2 way up with soil, some food scraps, (tomatoes, potato skins and some squash) and threw in maybe 4 or 5 containers of worms we bought from the bait store. We water it weekly and spread Acephate around the outside of the tub on the ground to keep ants out. We threw a piece of plywood over the top of it to keep birds, etc. out, and to help keep it shaded, and in no time we had more worms than you could shake a stick at. We save ALL of our food scraps for the worm tub, so it cuts down on our waste. It’s behind our shop so I don’t have to look at it. The soil we get out of that tub is amazingly rich. They create so much of it that we have to periodically remove some of it to make room for more worms. I use that soil in my gardens and man you ought to see my plants! Not only that, but most of our neighbors buy bait from us, not the bait stores. We remove worms and soil and throw them in cheap containers and keep them in the fridge in our shop. So we make money off the little buggers. I have had clients in the past want to get some of that soil for their gardens as well. The soil and worms can also be removed from the tub and tossed in your compost pile to speed up decomposition. Since I know you are doing renovations (from the post you made in the Lighting section)…you might have an old bathtub in your scraps somewhere? Just thought it might be something for you to think about.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 17th, 2008 at 9:32 am
Oh that’s a great idea! We have an old tub and the room for the worm farm, and after reading that, my husband actually got excited, he loves to fish!! I think that is something we can both use. Thanks soooo much!! Would we have to refrigerate them? No fridge in the shop here.
October 17th, 2008 at 9:50 am
We put up a fence to keep our dogs in and they discovered digging is a great way to get out. I used regular bricks at the bottom of the fence but they pitched those aside like they’re nothing. I have used all of the blocks we owned and those are not working either. They are just digging them up. I am in need of a better solution. Anyone have one? I am in the Pelion, SC area. TIA
October 17th, 2008 at 10:09 am
jlzjs27;
If you are in sandy soil, the easiest thing is to dig out about a 2 foot wide trench (so there is about 1 foot wide on either side under the fence), and about 6-8 inches deep all the way around the bottom of your fence, including under gates. Get some bags of Quick-krete, (or any concrete mix) mix it in a wheel barrow and then pour it in the trench as a solid perimeter barrier. They won’t be digging that stuff up once it sets.
Sounds like the lab we had some years ago. I lucked out with my Jack Russels, they dig, but only inside the fence and have not once tried to escape. If your dogs are more prone to dig at a specific area, try installing some shrubs on the outside of the fence to block their view. I installed some curly leaf Ligustrum on the side where my lab dug, and that helped a lot. They are tough shrubs and tolerate dog urine well.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 17th, 2008 at 10:17 am
Blakenme56;
We only fridge ours for people who want to come by and pick some up as bait. If you are not going to be selling them, it isn’t necessary, just put the tub in a shaded area, check the soil every other day or so to keep them moist and check for ants getting in the tub. Water them when the soil starts to looks dry. We started selling them because they multiplied so darn fast, and I do not compost, so we had to thin them out somehow!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
November 24th, 2008 at 10:32 pm
Thank you so much for the concrete solution. I poured about 1-2 foot wide and 4″ deep under my fence as you suggested, none of the dogs have gotten out since it dried and set up. Thank you so much for that idea. I would have hated it if one of them had gotten hit or hauled off to the pound. TIA
November 25th, 2008 at 10:56 am
jlzjs27:
You are very welcome. I have had Labs before and they can be real escape artists. I sort of figured the concrete barrier would solve your problems. Let me know if you need anything else!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
December 5th, 2008 at 9:37 am
An aside;
Round-Up is a wonderful chemical. I have used “Preen” for weeds in beds too, but bang-for-the-buck wise, you just can’t beat a good dose of Round-Up. The weeds here in Florida never sleep, and there are a few poking up through the 4 inches of new black mulch. I think I will go visit them this morning with Round-Up in hand. Buh-Bye!!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
December 8th, 2008 at 1:35 pm
Is there something that I can do about all the weeds in my garden? Since the weather has changed, they are everywhere. I am scared of Round-up because I have so many plants and they are so close together. Any help is great!
December 8th, 2008 at 6:05 pm
BMatthews;
If you would like to use “Round-Up”, there is a really easy way to make sure you only get it on the weeds you choose; paint it on them. I use the Round-up combined with a spreader-sticker, I mix it in a small bucket, bowl or can and use an old paintbrush. You paint the chemical right on the weeds, it is much easier to make sure you don’t get it on your bedding plants, so you can target it specifically. A bit more work, but you get better results that way. You can also spot treat weeds in your lawn in this manner.
If you still are scared to use “Round-Up”, you can buy “Preen”, however, it is a VERY selective herbicide. Your best bet is to pull a few of the weeds that are in the beds, take them into Lesco for identification and then buy the chemical they suggest. Different weeds in our zone are seasonal, and there is no point treating weeds that will be dying off when the hard frosts come. I suggest you follow all label instructions and buy what Lesco recommends. They should be able to identify what weeds you have and get you headed in the right direction toward eliminating them.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
December 9th, 2008 at 7:04 pm
Weed painting, what an interesting idea! I have the Round-Up, so I think may opt for that this weekend if we don’t get rained out. If you could give me more complete instructions before Friday, that would be great! I just don’t want to over do, or not do it right and waste the time, effort and chemicals.
December 9th, 2008 at 7:15 pm
BMatthews;
It is hard to remove all of the root systems of certain hard-to-kill weeds such as prickly lettuce, thistle, grasses, and many others by hand pulling. “Round-Up” can be applied to weeds growing in shrubs and flower beds by using a 1″ paint brush and carefully applying it to the leaves of the weeds. You don’t need to paint the entire weed, just a few of the leaves. I use a 5% solution and have had excellent results. Just mix the 5% solution in a bucket or small container, preferably one that you won’t use for anything else, and then paint the weeds with the 1″ brush. Be careful to not drip the mixture on any leaves of plants you want to keep as any plant, including trees, will be killed by “Round-Up” if it comes in contact with the leaves. Other than that, just have fun painting!
Note:
Depending on what formulation of “Round-Up” you use, you may need to watch the weather carefully before painting your weeds. Some formulations require 24-48 hours of “dry” time, others 24 hours, some as few as 30 minutes. Just be sure to read the label and instructions and follow them completely!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
January 12th, 2009 at 12:03 pm
Just wanted to let you know I painted he weeds in my garden a while back as you suggested. It really worked nicely. The weeds died, the plants I wanted to keep did not. It was a tad time consuming and a bit of a back breaker, but the results were awesome. Great tip! Thank you.
January 12th, 2009 at 12:23 pm
BMatthews;
Nothing worth having is ever easy. I knew it would work, I’ve done it many times with great results. It will make the weed “pulling” easier, as they are now dead so all you have to do is keep up with new sprouts. Once you get control of the major weeds new volunteers are easy to handle. I paint about once a month here to keep things under control.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
January 14th, 2009 at 12:18 am
Since I have gotten home the winter weeds in my garden have started a rampage. I found this really neat thing called a “Weed Wand”. So far, it does what it says it will, which is apply herbicide directly to the desired plant to be removed without over-spray. I used it in my garden and it is a great alternative to painting, much easier and not nearly as back breaking. I still carried the mixture of Round-Up in the bucket with me to make refilling faster and easier, but this wand did the trick. Anyone who has been painting weeds might want to check into this. Here’s the link to the WeedWand. Great invention…ashamed I didn’t think of this first! (I also added a link to their site on the right hand side with the other links.)
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
February 8th, 2009 at 11:56 am
I have a small dairy farm outside of Saluda, SC. I have been storing manure for about 2 years, I have the older separated from the newer stuff. If you have any idea of who I could market this to for fertilizer/mulch purposes, I would greatly appreciate it.
HughHoofner
February 9th, 2009 at 10:00 am
HughHoofner;
I don’t right off the top of my head, but I would start by calling Jimmy Sharpe at Dixie Landscape and Supply in Lexington. I know they use manure in their Dixie Mix, but don’t really know all the details. If they are not interested, Jimmy might have some ideas for you. He’s a really nice guy and I’m sure he would help you.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
BTW….great screen name for a cow-man. LOL! Is your first name really Hugh? Had to ask.
February 9th, 2009 at 11:43 am
Thanks for the referral, and my middle name is Hugh..so we just thought it fit. Wish I had Heff’s money, that would be nice!
March 8th, 2009 at 9:55 pm
This post has good and valuable information, Is nice to see some good articles like this one, thank you.
March 16th, 2009 at 1:42 am
Grace Kelly;
Thanks! Glad to be of help. If you have any questions, feel free to post them!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
March 24th, 2009 at 10:20 am
Readers;
Spring has sprung! My Bradford Pear is in full bloom, and pollen is covering the pool and cars. The spring weeds are back with a vengeance! The weed wand is proving very handy right now. As soon as a few of these trees stop blooming, I will be giving them a small trimming, the same with a few of my shrubs. I missed pruning them back this winter as I was in Florida, so I will have to play “catch-up” and prune them slightly out of season. Oh well, things happen, right?
It’s time to re-edge my beds and re-apply fresh mulch, my beds are over due for both. I’ve not been home enough to get anything accomplished in my own yard. I myself am an average home owner with so much to do and so little time to do it. Just because I am a green industry professional does not mean my yards reflects that.
I’ve been away from home far too much in the past year and my yard shows it! Bah, humph, I’ll get it all caught up in the next few weeks. Post your questions about sprucing up your yard for Spring. I always make time to answer them.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
April 14th, 2009 at 10:11 am
Dear Readers;
My niece sent me this link and I found it interesting and thought I would share it with you. It’s about Hay Bale Gardening…I can not even begin to explain it, so here is the link. I think you will enjoy this one too! This is copied from a publication from the University of Georgia and I’m sure that this would work really well for some of you with limited mobility or space.
Hay Bale Gardening…Again
ENJOY!!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
May 14th, 2009 at 10:25 pm
I added this website to my favorites list
May 15th, 2009 at 8:32 am
Yay,
More readers! If I can help you with any projects, please do not hesitate to ask.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
June 4th, 2009 at 3:13 am
A few days ago I stumbled across your website and have been reading along quietly. I decided I might write my opening comment. I dont know what to write except that Ive loved reading. Interesting blog. I intend to continue visiting this website now and again. I have also got your feed to get updates.
June 16th, 2009 at 9:07 am
I have very large and very old lilac bushes. Around the base of the bushes are many new stalks. I would like to know how to transplant them to other areas around the property, or how to get new starts without buying new bushes.
Gail Lester, Camden, SC
June 16th, 2009 at 11:31 am
GLester;
Thanks for posting and welcome to Turfgal.
Digging up and replanting those new stalks, which are actually offshoots from the main plant, is the easiest way to propagate lilacs… as long as the plant is not a grafted one. Otherwise you’ll reproduce the base plant.
Just use a shovel or other sharp instrument to cut the offshoot (also called a sucker) from the main plant, trying to keep as many of the roots intact as you can. Then replant it in a new spot. Give the transplant some extra care for a year or so as it gets established.
If it is a small offshoot with minimal roots, you can dip the roots in rooting hormone, (which is available at many lawn and garden stores/departments) and put it in a clear container of water until the root ball gets larger. Once it has established a nice root ball, you can then replant it in the garden, again giving it some extra care until it gets established.
How to tell if your Lilacs have been grafted:
Grafting is a method of propagation in which a branch of one species, the scion, is attached to the rootstock of another species, usually to improve a plant’s appearance or characteristics. It should be easy to see a graft union, where the scion wood of the cultivar joins the rootstock several inches above ground level. Look for some slight swelling at the graft union and a noticeable difference in the bark from the rootstock to the scion.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
June 20th, 2009 at 1:06 pm
Thanks for the great info. I am unsure if the lilacs are grafted as the shrubs are so huge, so I may have to wait until I cut them back to really tell. For now I will just remove/transplant the shoots and see what I get. If I don’t like the results, I can always dig them up later…and if the flowers are different, I guess that tells me about them being grafted or not. I think I’ll take my chances! I just love these lilac bushes.
GLester
July 1st, 2009 at 5:26 pm
I found your blog on google and read a few of your other posts.
You have a great Blog!!! I just added you to my Google News Reader.
Look forward to reading more from you in the future.
Keep up the good work.
July 22nd, 2009 at 1:57 pm
Very cool post….
July 23rd, 2009 at 9:16 am
Turfgal;
I followed your instructions on cutting the lilac offshoots. The rooting hormone worked wonders and I now have about 10 lovely little new lilac plants complete with thriving root balls. When is the best time to set them out in my garden?
GLester
July 23rd, 2009 at 10:24 am
Glester;
When is the best time to plant lilacs and why?
With Lilacs the two best planting times are spring and fall. Fall really is a great time for planting lilacs. We did over 75% of our transplanting in the fall.
How to properly plant your lilac
1. Soak your bare root lilac in a bucket of water while you prepare the hole.
2. Locate the planting hole in a sunny (at least 6 hours) spot. Be sure the area is well drained.
3. Dig a nice wide hole 3-4′ in diameter and as deep as the height of the root system. The wider the better!
4. If you have wet heavy clay soil a raised bed would be best!
5. Prepare a soil mix of 75% rich garden loam, 25% compost and or manure, and two (2) scoops of a good balanced lilac food.
6. You can also mix in 2-3 five gallon buckets of coarse road gravel. Lilacs love a rough gravel soil too!
7. Place the lilac in the center of the hole and back fill firmly with your soil mix.
8. Water your lilac in with your bucket of water it was soaking in.
9. Place a layer of bark mulch 3-4 inches deep covering the planting area.
10. Follow all post-planting tips to insure your hard work pays off!
You have now given your lilac a good home. One that can now produce blooms for generations to come!
Care Once Planted:
Watering
If post-planting weather is hot and dry you should not hesitate to supply your lilac with a drink. Once established your lilac will be able to cope with dry spells, especially if you applied bark mulch. A good sign to watch for in water deficiency is the status of the leaves, wilting or folded leaves can indicate your lilac needs water. Remember that over watering can be just as harmful as inadequate watering. Lilacs can drown. If you scrape back the bark mulch and probe the soil, it will tell you if your lilac is ready for another drink.
Fertilizing
Each spring feed your lilacs with some lilac food. Applying this under the bark mulch is best. Feed your lilacs again right after blooming season ends to encourage flower bud set for next year. (Good lilac food is enriched with lime and seaweed meal.) Lilacs like a near neutral soil pH. That is why I use this type of fertilizer on my own lilacs.
Pruning
Please dare to prune your lilacs. It’s the most important step needed to insure good quality flower production. The best blooms are borne on vigorous young wood; therefore you should try and keep new wood constantly developing. Regular pruning does this once your lilac has reached a height of 6-8’. The best time to prune is in the winter when your lilac is dormant. If you can’t bear to lose any blooms then you should prune right after the blooming period ends. First remove all broken or dead branches. Next cut back all “skyrocketing” trunks to a few inches above ground level. Finally thin out the new suckers and leave only the best ones so they can become your next flower producers. If you have a real over-grown lilac that needs to be restored, then you should cut back to a few inches above ground level (a third of the lilac each year) until you have it under control. A word of caution if your old lilac is of the grafted type this method of pruning will not work. Prune in early spring before the leaves appear if your looking just for lots of new growth. This early pruning will sacrifice flower buds but help when trying to rejuvinate an old lilac or help fatten a young small bush. Prune right after blooming season ends as the flowers are fading if you don’t want to risk cutting off any flower buds.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 2nd, 2009 at 12:38 am
Fall is upon us, the days are cooling off and the nights are getting chilly. It’s time to spruce up the gardens and beds and prepare for the winter that is coming.
Bed Cleaning:
For lots of plants, leaves that fall off trees and into beds can be both a blessing and a curse. Any leaves that have fallen inside plants and shrubs should be removed on an ongoing basis. If the excess leaf debris builds up inside the plants, it can hold excess moisture, mold and begin to decay being a major source of plant fungus. Remove all fallen leaves from any plants, it’s fine to throw the leaves into a compost heap/bin or even leave them in the bed as extra mulch. You just don’t want them INSIDE your plants.
Renew Mulch:
Mulch gives plant roots added protection from harsh weather. Be sure that your mulch is a minimum of 3″ deep, but not so deep that it is stacked up the shrubbery trunks. Be sure to water in your mulch good once you have it applied so that your plants receive ample moisture as this is also known to be a very dry time for plants in our zone. Most people are shutting down their irrigation systems for winter, and that’s fine. Just give your bedding plants and shrubs a good drink first.
If your mulch is thick enough but lacks that “new look” mulch colorant will save the day, and lots of money. It will revitalize faded mulch giving it a like new appearance without all the hassle of re-mulching beds. This can extend the life of your mulch by up to 4 moths, so when Spring hits, then you can top off your mulch. **Mulch colorant is available at Lesco in a variety of colors to match your current landscape. It can also be purchased online at a variety of retailers in various quantities.**
Fall annual color:
If you are like me, you like some fall/winter color in your landscape. In zone 8A&B Pansies, Cabbage and Kale are mainstays for the winter months. Pansies come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. When mixed and matched with winter grasses and the cabbage/kale varieties of plants, they can make gorgeous, stand-out additions to your landscape. Be sure to keep all annual flower beds raised up so that your plants do not suffer from root rot should we have a wet winter season. I like to create my beds out of cow manure and compost adding vermiculite if it is not already in one of the planting mixes you are using. This will give your flowers ample drainage over the winter months. Adding a tad of fertilizer to the bed is also a great idea to give your seasonal color a good jump start. I like to elevate my flower beds a minimum of 3″ above the rest of the beds I am installing them in just for extra drainage. I also like to add a thin layer of mulch to the flowers for root protection. Following this basic guideline should insure that your flowers grow, bloom and thrive in their new home. **The Columbia Farmer’s Market is an excellent source for seasonal color plants, pots and garden accessories. Stop in and see Josh at Case Plants, he has a great sense of style and is willing to help you design some fabulous focal points for your home or office**
Shrubbery pruning:
Fall is also a good time to get your shrubbery pruned back into shape after the crazy summer growing season. If you are doing light pruning, removing less than 6″ of growth, just make sure your shrubs, if they flower, are finished flowering. If you are doing heavy pruning, removing more than 6″ of growth, it is best to wait until after our first hard frost to do so.
Grass/Turf:
Winter weeds are beginning to germinate now that the temperatures have dropped. Be sure to follow the guidelines for pre and post emergent herbicide applications for the specific weeds you have issues with. You can refer to Warm Season Turfgrass Weeds for weed identification and Introduction to Chemical Application Vol. 1 for calibration of spreaders and sprayers. If you have specific questions, just post them and I will answer them the best I can.
Dormant turf blahs; yep, they are coming. Turf Paint!!! Turf paint is available at Lesco as well as some online retailers. It’s photo degradable and will need to be reapplied every 6-8 weeks depending on the weather conditions, but it brings in ZERO weed content to your existing turf. It’s totally safe for children and pets, is easily applied and it does not increase your maintenance costs by requiring extra mowing the way over-seeding does. Your lawn stays green and lush looking all winter long without creating headaches for you! Again, if you have questions regarding application rates, mixing, etc. just post them.
Happy Gardening!!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 2nd, 2009 at 10:58 am
I’m reading your posts and the turf paint idea has me curious. How hard is that stuff to actually apply and does it look natural? I have seen some blue looking grass and it just looks very fake to me. Does it come in different shades of green, or just how does that work? I don’t want to spend a bunch of cash on blue grass and hate it.
TDWilford
October 2nd, 2009 at 1:12 pm
TDWilford:
The actual Turf Paint comes in one color, green. The mixing and application rate is how you achieve the color you want. The directions specify an amount to be added, however, once you mix that amount with the required spreader/sticker, that will change the hue of the paint, as it dilutes it. You achieve a lighter or darker shade of green through spray nozzle adjustments and applications of additional coats.
You can test spray a small patch of turf to adjust your fan nozzle spray pattern and see if it will require additional coats to get the desired shade of green. You will want to do this before you begin actually painting your turf. I recommend a good fan nozzle and adding the spreader sticker to the turf paint. The “spreader” part thins out the turf paint insuring a smooth, uniform coat, and the “sticker” part helps it adhere to the grass blades. So ya don’t wanna skimp on that.
As for BLUE grass, that is a TRACKER chemical. It’s used with other chemicals to track the spray pattern to insure proper coverage. Turf paint itself is not blue, it’s green, so no worries there. Some chemicals when applied, if not sprayed at a 100% coverage rate will not yield the efficacy desired, so the chemical is then mixed with a tracker dye to insure proper coverage.
The actual adjustment of the spray nozzle is the hard part of the application process with Turf Paint. After that, it’s pretty easy. You spray apply the paint mixture, walking backward, slightly over-lapping the row edges, rinse and repeat. Be sure when you are done to THOROUGHLY clean your spray tanks and nozzles. The paint can be tough on sprayers so if it’s not cleaned well, it’s gunna be trashed the next time you go to use it. (Triple rinsing/washing is a good idea here.) It’s really just that easy. Well worth the bit of effort in my opinion. The biggest asset is no additional weeds in your turf and no extra mowing. How can you beat that?
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
October 2nd, 2009 at 3:26 pm
Just reading about this makes me smile. The turf paint idea was the best thing that has happened to me, regarding taking care of my yard, in a very long time. I did it last year for the first time taking Turfgal’s advice and she was right on the money. It is the easiest thing ever and my grass is green all winter and I don’t mow. It’s great. I spent about $85.00 on the paint and spreader sticker and it should last me 2 maybe 3 years. Alot cheaper than winter rye and I don’t have to cut grass on Saturdays!! My next door neighbors were having fits, their grass was brown next to my beautiful green grass all last winter. I wasn’t telling them how I did it either. My yard was the best looking one on the block…it will be this winter too as long as they don’t read anything here. LOL
DirtDevil
October 2nd, 2009 at 5:01 pm
DirtDevil:
Compete much? LOL…I’m so glad it has worked out for you so well. It really is easy to have a great looking lawn all winter, ya just gotta know the secrets!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
November 26th, 2009 at 8:02 pm
Thanks for the informative info - I had fun reading it! I always love your blog.
December 1st, 2009 at 9:23 am
Yeah…so I finally broke down a week ago and bought some turf paint and the spreader sticker as recommended in your posts. To be honest, I was very skeptical as to how this all worked, but I followed your directions, sprayed a test patch, got the color I wanted and just started painting my yard. At first I was not sure at all how it would look once it dried, but wow, what a huge difference!! This worked great and you are right, much easier and cheaper than winter rye and looks great. Thank you so much for the tip. My next door neighbor thought I had lost my mind when he saw me spray/painting my brown centipede. Once it dried, he and I chatted a bit, and he is off to get some paint now too. I think this may be catching on. My wife loves the idea of green grass for Christmas holidays without the extra yard work. Great tip, I’ll be doing this for a long time now. thanks!
TDWilford
December 1st, 2009 at 10:31 am
TDWilford;
Hate to say I told you so…but I told you so. I’ve been doing this a very long time, and there are some real time and money savers out there, you just have to know where to look. Not only that, but the paint is much better for your turf, no additional weed content in it. Not to mention, you don’t mow if it doesn’t grow! So glad this worked out for you! Tell your neighbor to visit the website. That way, if he has questions, I can help him out!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
December 15th, 2009 at 8:23 am
I planted pansies a few weeks ago and they are all withering and dying. I have been watering them daily and I just don’t understand why they are dying. Can you help me out??
BastionT
December 15th, 2009 at 11:52 am
BastionT,
First of all, when you planted them, did you create a raised bed for them? Pansies like adequate drainage or the root rot will get them in a heart beat. Also watering daily, if you are in the Midlands, may be an issue. We have had an abundance of rain and you may be over-watering them. When I plant pansies I always do the following:
1. Design a raised bed of at least 3″ above the rest of the bedding area.
2. Amend the pansy planting area soil with a good potting soil mix such as Miracle Grow potting soil. You can also use Cow Manure/Compost with some vermiculite.
3. Install flowers, mulch flowers with pine straw, bark or another suitable mulch for root protection.
4. Give them a good initial watering and evaluate the water needs daily thereafter.
Over-watering is just as lethal to plants as under-watering. You have to look at the weather conditions daily and evaluate. If it is overcast and damp for a prolonged period, like it has been recently here in the Midlands, you will not need to water. If it is sunny and dry, give them a drink.
I suspect that you have over-watered them. I’m not sure how far gone they are at the moment, but if you stop the watering they may come back. If they are too far gone, you may need to rip them out and replace the really bad ones.
Refer to the above Post regarding Fall Annual Color (10/02/2009) for more details!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
December 15th, 2009 at 12:09 pm
It’s Poinsettia Time!!
It’s Christmas time and people are buying Poinsettias for their homes and offices. Most of them seem to find their way to the dumpsters after the Holidays, which I find sad. They are beautiful plants and with the introduction of new cultivars, can remain so for months to come if properly maintained. Here is a great link to the Ohio State University website that will help you keep your Poinsettias beautiful over the Holidays and beyond!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
January 1st, 2010 at 12:02 pm
My sister suggested this site, and she is absolutely right in every way! Keep up the excellent work.
January 5th, 2010 at 8:28 am
Really like this post, thanks for writing.
January 11th, 2010 at 10:22 am
Thanks for the link to Poinsettia care, I am going to try and keep my flowers alive for more than a month after Christmas this year by following those directions. Good Stuff! Thanks
Marti
January 12th, 2010 at 12:03 pm
Marti;
Hope it helps. I didn’t buy or get the first Poinsettia this year, but I have followed guidelines like those before and it does work!
Good Luck,
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
January 17th, 2010 at 5:02 pm
Excellent article has given me a lot to think about. Thumbs Up!!!
January 21st, 2010 at 1:02 pm
Just an update, my Poinsettias are still as beautiful today as they were two weeks before Christmas when I got them. I am amazed at what a few tips can do! Thanks so much!!!
Marti
January 21st, 2010 at 3:29 pm
Marti,
LOL…let’s see how they look towards the end of March or April can we? Let me know how they do. If you can get them to flower for Christmas in 2010 I will be impressed..the year long care is the tough part. I had to really work to get the right area to store them during their “dormant” period. But then of course, I began the trips to Florida to take care of parents and all the work went to heck in a hand basket. Glad the link helped.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
February 9th, 2010 at 11:15 am
Think Spring!!!
I am beginning to get Spring Fever, it’s going to be almost 70 degrees F here this weekend and my thoughts have turned to spring color in my drab winter garden.
Here are some great links for you all to look at!
Garden Boutique
Garden Designs This is a friend of mine in Ohio, some really outstanding designs! Simply elegant!
Gardening Tips Just some more tips and ideas for you to peek through.
Luciano Giubbilei Fabulous, simplistic designs! Certainly not for everyone, but his ideas and designs are so clean and stunning!
…I am seriously considering putting in some Peonies. Maybe some Hydrangea too…Just can’t decide. Looks like I need to break out my design software lol. I’m so sick of gray days I want Color dang it!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
March 9th, 2010 at 12:40 pm
I just found your site, referred from a friend. Great info and ideas here. Clean design, easy to navi.
Awesome links, there are some really cool ideas on those sites. Thanks for posting those. Now I have spring fever!!! Hopefully it will be nice this weekend so I can get to work in my yard.
This site is just cram-packed with tips, tricks and ideas. Nice to see something like this for just our area. Other sites are for all over the U.S. and the information is just confusing! Great Site. Thanks!!
Patty Lindenbergh
March 9th, 2010 at 1:04 pm
Gardening for Children!!!
If you love plants and gardens, why not instill that same love into your children? There are some really low cost ideas for making gardening with your kids fun and easy.
Years ago, a client of mine that had three girls wanted to create a space where the girls could plant and grow their own flowers but they had limited yard space as they lived “in town”.
My solution was to build a tri-level planting box using landscape timbers. Each girl, based on height would have their “own area” to plant, care for and watch blossom.
We began by designing the box to the required specification for height and width. Once designed we began the build. Each area was then lined with black weed barrier (heavy gauge plastic) with several holes in the bottom for drainage. The outside of the box timbers were then painted to match my clients home.
Once the liner was installed and the paint had dried we layered the bottom of each box with broken bricks, old cans, gravel and sand for added drainage. When that layer was complete we added a mixture of Black Cow cow manure, vermiculite, a dash of peat moss, Mushroom Compost and Miracle Grow gardening soil and then leveled each box. (cost of materials for the box only was less than $75.00!!)
I went to a store in Ballentine, (now closed) called Garden Treasures where I purchased Gardening clogs, gloves aprons, buckets and tools for each girl, along with some unique plant markers, name plaques that were later hand painted with each girls name and some great decorative little bees, butterflies, crickets and toads on sticks for decorations. I purchased 12 different varieties of annual flower seeds and bulbs for the girls to get started with.
The girls were given the planter box and all the trimmings for part of their Easter present, and they loved it! My client later told me that within the hour all 3 girls were elbow deep in dirt and having a ball!
The girls learned about taking care of another living thing by tending their gardens, which I was told later, prepared them for taking care of a dog a few years down the road. They loved when the flowers poked through the soil and they could actually SEE what their work had produced. The middle girl still plants flowers in the box yearly I am told. She has a great love for plants, and not only grows them, but draws and photographs them as well.
Children love to garden too, and you just never know what that love of gardening will BLOOM into!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
March 16th, 2010 at 12:05 pm
Gardening Guide for Spring!!
If April means spring to you, get out your garden tools and get going. As always, we’re slaves to the whims of nature. It always seems spring drags its heels and then runs full force right into the heat of summer. Be prepared with an organized ‘To Do’ list and take advantage of whatever nice days we are given. Our plants will still need pruning, feeding and weeding even if the sun doesn’t always shine.
Where it’s Spring
* Keep ahead of the weeds.
* Turn the compost.
* Sharpen Tools
* Test and amend your soil
* Prune flowering shrubs when they finish blooming.
* Plant and divide perennials
Southeast
* Be prepared for cold snaps at night. Use row covers newspapers or sheets to protect seedlings.
* Start your seeds indoors of warm season vegetables and flowers if you haven’t yet.
* Stake perennials before they get too tall.
* Finish pruning roses. Remove dead and diseased wood first. Hybrid teas can be cut back hard, to a new shoot. Check on cool season crops for harvesting. Direct seed in the vegetable garden toward the end of the month.
* Begin transplanting warm season seedlings outdoors, at the end of April when the soil has warmed and night temperatures stay above 50 degrees F.
* Give your bulbs some food once they finish blooming and allow the foliage to remain until it begins to turn yellow.
* Feed fruit and nut trees and bushes.
* Enjoy the flowering shrubs in bloom and keep an eye out for Trillium.
Florida
* Get whatever you can transplanted now, before the weather turns hot and the mosquitoes take over.
* Mulch around trees and shrubs.
* Make sure you water, if rain is not regular.
* Replace cool season flowers and crops as they begin to fade, with warm season plants.
* Keep and eye out for grasshopper infestations.
* Start seeds of warm season plants.
* Keep feeding flowering annuals.
* Plant container grown fruit and nut trees.
* Check citrus trees for pests like citrus leaf minor (contorted or misshapen leaves), aphids, scab, scale, whitefly and mites
* Enjoy the warm days of spring and the flowering trees.
Spring is here so get out and get growing!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
March 19th, 2010 at 3:06 am
Nice article! I would be very happy, If I could write like this. The more I see articles of such quality as this (which is not common), the more I think the web has a great future. Keep ‘em coming. Thanks
April 2nd, 2010 at 5:01 pm
I’m delighted! It’s refreshing to see someone very knowledgeable about what they do. Keep up the great work and I’ll return for more!Cheers!
April 24th, 2010 at 4:43 pm
I planted a tulip garden around a tree in my front yard. I tilled the dirt, added compost, planted the bulbs, and mulched it. The tulips grew and bloomed, but they only stayed bloomed about a week or so. Now they are just these poor sad looking faded greens. Some look like they are dying. I read some tulips grow longer than others. What tulips bloom longest and how can I keep them from dying? I water everyday. Also, what PH balance fertilizer is best for Lilly gardens?
ShanBol8
April 25th, 2010 at 9:59 am
ShanBol8;
As for what fertilizer pH is best for Lilies as well as Tulips, you should have your soil tested by Clemson Extension. The cost is about $8.00. Follow the instructions in the video I have posted under Links for Soil Sampling. Once you have those results, you will know what you need to correct.
Most flowers do well in a soil that ranges from slightly acid to neutral. If you have to choose one pH for all your plants, the best would be 6.5 to 7. At this pH all the minerals in the soil are available to plants. If the soil is too acid, or too alkaline, certain necessary minerals are “locked up” in the soil. The minerals are there, but can’t be used by the plants hungering for them.
The 6.5 to 7 pH provides the best environment for the tiny organisms that change the nitrogen in the air to food which plants can absorb. It is the best soil for the bacteria that decompose plant tissue to make humus.
Another reason for changing the pH of your soil is to create a much better “tilth”, a nice crumbly even texture when your pH is 6.5 or above and below 8. This is especially true if calcium has been added to bring up the pH. From lumpy dirt it becomes the soil you love to touch. It all goes back to those busy bacteria. Give them a soil in which they can live and work efficiently and they’ll work it over and over, producing a medium in which plants can put forth strong roots. Decomposing remains of these roots continue to keep the soil structure in good condition.
As for your Tulips, I am suspecting that your soil pH is incorrect and it is limiting the blooming time. Here are some good basic guide lines to help you select the right variety of Tulip for your garden.
Types of Tulips
Although it isn’t critical to know the various classifications of tulips, understanding how they’re categorized can help you choose the right variety for your garden.
For example, tulip classes vary in height, bloom time, and best uses. Here are some common tulip classifications.
Greigii tulips are a tough, low growing species that look great naturalized in beds, around perennials, and among trees and shrubs. They only grow 8 to 10 inches tall and tolerate part shade as well as full sun. They flower early in the season and come in a variety of colors. They also grow well in containers combined with various annuals and low growing perennials.
Example: ‘Plaisir’ Tulip
Double late tulips are also known as peony-flowered tulips, alluding to their large double flowers. Plant these in a sheltered location so the huge blooms won’t be damaged by strong winds. You may want to stake individual blooms, since, like their namesake, peonies, they can be top heavy and tend to flop over. But their spectacular flowers make it worth the extra care! They product one huge flower per stem.
Example:’Angelique’ Tulip
Darwin hybrid tulips are notable for their large, bright flowers and long stems. Because of these qualities, they make excellent cut flowers. Although the stems are quite sturdy, it’s still best to plant them in a spot with some protection from strong winds, to prevent these tall flowers from toppling. They generally flower mid-season, producing a single flower per stem.
Example: ‘Beauty of Apeldoorn’ Tulip
Parrot tulips have large, unusually-shaped flowers with fringed, curled and twisted petals. In full sun the flowers open wide for a very striking display, and they are available in a variety of colors and patterns. Because their heritage varies, the bloom time and height also varies among the cultivars. These large flowers do best in a sheltered location, and make striking additions to bouquets.
Example: ‘Black Parrot’ Tulip
Fosteriana tulips originated as a wild species found in the mountainous areas of Central Asia. These early-flowering tulips are known for their intensely-colored flowers that open wide in the sunshine. They are versatile, and can be used in mass plantings, cut for bouquets, or forced for early bloom. They are also an excellent choice for naturalizing.
Example:’Candela’ Tulip
You can Google the names of each of the examples and see photos, I’m sure. Based on the characteristics of each tulip, you can then choose which is the best for your particular situation.
Again soil pH of 6.5-7. (Just keep your pH over 6.5 and under 8.0 for the best results.) If you need any help with adjusting your pH, please post. I will be happy to help.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
May 5th, 2010 at 1:23 pm
Everyone around my church is always talking about the great advise they get when they call a Master Gardener. They almost sound like some kind of know all garden God. I’m new here and didn’t want to sound dumb by asking the church folk, so I am asking you. Where do I hire a Master Gardener and do you know how much they charge for their service?
Lisa F., Richland North East
May 5th, 2010 at 6:23 pm
Lisa F.;
The Clemson Extension Master Gardener Program trains, selects, and utilizes knowledgeable volunteers to facilitate the educational work of the local Consumer Horticulture Agent, by delivering researched-based information to citizens of the state.
If you contact the Clemson Extension Service they can provide you with a list of Master Gardeners. I am listing the contact information below for you. As for what they charge, I have no idea. I know that MG’s that are still in the process of getting their certification are all volunteers. I’m sure if you start with the Extension Service, they will answer a good many of your questions, should you have more.
Midlands Master Gardener Program
Contact:
Vicky Bertagnolli
Email: VBERTAG@clemson.edu
Richland County: 803-865-1216
900 Clemsonn Road (PO Box 102406), Columbia, SC 29224-2406
Once you contact them, they can provide you a list of MGs in your area that can help you.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
May 7th, 2010 at 2:25 pm
Gardening…What’s in it for me?
There are many beneficial and enjoyable reason to grow a garden.
If you grow your own vegetables you will have fresh organic ingredients, save money, not to mention helping out your landscape. By growing your own herbs, fruits, berries and veggies you can control what chemicals you use on your plants and avoid the risk of commercially used harmful pesticides or any other harmful substance that may come in contact with your food.
Just think about the money you will save by starting a garden. Sure you will have to pay to get started but once you get your garden going it will soon pay you back, by saving money using the ingredients you have chosen to grow. You can grow veggie gardens in a variety of ways in just about any location. Lots of fruits and veggies can be grown in containers or hay bales maximizing space.
Your garden can also be just a place to relax, you can just plant flowers and have a nice place to enjoy. Again, many flowers can be grown in containers allowing them to be moved in and out of doors if you wish.
Gardening is great exercise too! Gardening is a work out isn’t it? Gardening is an active living activity which also doubles as a physical activity. Rather then saving all you outdoor work for one day, try to break it up into 30-60 minute sessions 2 or 3 times a week. Try to stick to a regular garden routine and work at a constant steady speed. Be sure to change positions every 5-10 minutes. This will help you from over working certain groups of muscles. For instance; If you start by pulling weeds. Stand to prune next. Also remember to alternate which side of your body you use.
Studies have shown that regular physical activities help reduce heart disease, obesity, high blood pressure, adult-onset diabetes as well as having many other benefits.
How many calories did I burn?
Divide your weight by 100 (150 lb/100 = 1.5)
Multiply the result by Exercise Value on this list below (1.5 x 2.5 for grocery shopping = 3.75)
Multiply the result by the number of minutes spent in the activity, say 30 (3.75 x 30 = 112.5)( See chart below)
Mowing the lawn (push mower) 4.5
Raking the lawn 3.0
Sweeping outside 3.0
Weeding garden 3.0
Other outdoor/common activities
Cleaning the house (moderate) 2.0
Ironing 2.0
Shopping (grocery) 2.5
Shopping 1.75
Soccer 5.5
Stretching 3.0
Shoveling snow 4.5
Walking slow (firm surface) 2.0
Washing the car 3.5
Get out and Get Growing!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
May 10th, 2010 at 7:34 pm
A friend of mine told me about this site, perhaps you can help me.
My son and I made our first veggie garden this year. I used old pavers to raise the bed about a foot high. In the raised bed, we have corn, tomatoes, sweet peas, pumpkin and carrots.
I know there are mice and rabbits nearby, and it’s only a matter of time before they find our garden. Any suggestions on how to protect the raised garden bed? Thanks!
blessings_times_three
May 10th, 2010 at 9:04 pm
blessings_times_three;
Red Pepper is a great deterrent for rodents. If you have room, plant a few :).
I have also found some great products by the company “I Must Garden” they carry a full line of repellents to help you. (They are also located in Chapel Hill, NC, so they are close to home.) Their products are all organic and can be used up until time of harvest. All natural is the way to go when growing your own food items.
Also, if you happen to have creepy crawlies like caterpillars, it’s best to pick them off by hand, and although this may sound weird or even a little gross, keep a spray bottle of plain water handy. While plucking off the insects, drop them into the water and leave them to decompose, it makes a great nutritious foliage spritz, feed your plants what would have been feeding on them…Irony, I know!
Good Luck and Happy Gardening!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
June 5th, 2010 at 3:07 pm
Found your site today looking for a solution…I have had a problem with cats in my garden during the night. I want to plant veggies next year & keep the garden organic. How can I shoo away these blasted creatures?
Perdie
June 5th, 2010 at 9:11 pm
Perdie,
Look at the products from I Must Garden. They have a great line of completely organic repellents that really work. Not just cats…all sorts of pests. Completely safe for use on veggies and other edibles! Not too costly and works great, how can you beat that.
I have a link to their site on the right hand side of this site.
In addition to their products, there is also another company called “Liquid Fence”, most garden centers and home improvement stores carry it. They may have a repellent that will work for you as well. It costs a good bit more than the “I Must Garden” products, however.
Good Luck!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!