Lawn and Bed Schedule
Monthly (hopefully) I will be publishing lawn and bed events regarding application times for fertilizer, herbicides, pesticides and the like to help you all get a better feel for what needs to be done and when. Hopefully it will help you achieve your desired results. Keep in mind that your application rates can only be determined by your soil test and your specific shrubbery/flower bed requirements. Please refer to YOUR soil test for formulations and application rates. These are just general guidelines to follow as to WHEN you need to apply.
If you have questions regarding your specific soil test results and how to interpret them, feel free to email me directly (Turfgal01 @ windstream.net) or post your questions here!
Happy Spring Everyone!!!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
March 21st, 2009 at 2:26 pm
Spring is here! If you have not had your soil tested by Clemson Extension Service, I would have that done ASAP. Without those results, you are wasting valuable time and money applying fertilizers and pesticides/herbicides that may not be what your lawn and shrubbery/flowers need. Not only that, you may actually be doing more harm than good by overdosing your turf and beds, causing chemical run-off with all the spring rains. Better to be safe than sorry, I say…and you just can’t be too cautious when using any chemicals in your yard.
Please contact you local Clemson Extension for fee rates and turn-around times on soil tests. Fees are generally in the 8-12$ range depending on the tests you request.
For instructions on how to collect soil samples correctly, watch THIS VIDEO!
We will be ready to fertilize after April 15, depending on weather, so it is imperative you have accurate soil testing done and results in hand prior to that event being completed!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness By the Yard!
April 2nd, 2009 at 3:34 pm
Spring Application Guide!!
April 15th (or after) is the time to apply fertilizer to turf and shrubs. You want to make sure that we have at least FIVE CONSECUTIVE nights with temperatures of 60 degrees or above, then it’s application time!
Be sure to follow the application rate outlined in your soil test to know how many pounds per square feet of fertilizer to apply. Generally in our zone centipedegrass will get 16-4-8 fertilizer applied after April 15th. St. Augustine may require a mixture of fertilizers, and there are special blends for available for St. Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia, as well as the other turf types commonly found in our area.
To calculate how much fertilizer you will need do this;
Measure all turf length X width, that will be the total number of square feet of turf you have.
EXAMPLE: Front yard is 16′X20′=320 sq ft
Side yards are 12′X50′=600 sq ft
Back Yard is 75′X20′=1500 Sq ft
front 320 + side 600 +back 1500 = 2420 SQ FT of turf. If your test says apply at 6 lbs per 1,000 sq feet of turf, you will need 14.4 lbs. of fertilizer to cover your yard. (6 (lbs per 1,000 sq ft of fertilizer to be applied) X 2.4 (thousands of sq ft of turf you have) ) Easy as pie, now just set your spreader to apply the 6lbs and you are off and running. If you need help with this, take your spreader to Lesco and they can set it for you, no muss, no fuss.
If your soil test calls for an application of lime, pelletized lime can be purchased at Lesco, it’s very inexpensive and easy to apply. Again, follow the rates from your soil test.
Before you apply anything, it is recommended that you bi-directionally core aerate your turf. Commercial grade aerators can be rented easily and will go a long way towards helping you achieve your dream yard. Core aeration is the preferred method, it removes 1″ cores loosening soil and relieving compaction making it easier for grass roots to grow to a healthy depth.
Steps for fertilization and aeration are as follows:
Bi-directionally Deep Core Aerate;
You want to aerate your yard length ways, and then again width ways creating the 1″ cores that instead of being 1″ apart, are now 1/2″ apart allowing for better water, air and fertilizer (chemical) absorption. This allows grass to have optimum growing conditions.
Lime/Fertilizer;
If your soil test calls for lime, apply it to your turf (and beds) as defined in your soil test results. Use pelletized lime for best results (available at Lesco). Apply fertilizer per your individual test results next.
Shrubbery fertilization;
The easiest way I have found is to get a bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer and a large solo drinking cup and fertilize all shrubbery by hand at the base of the plant. If you fertilize with a rotary or drop spreader and fertilizer gets on the leaves of the plants, it MUST BE WASHED OFF or you run the risk of burning your plants. I use 1 cup per plant for medium sized plants, if they are full grown and rather large, you can apply another 1/2 cup around the base of the plant or tree. Once all fertilizer is applied in your beds, be sure to water thoroughly, making sure no fertilizer is left on the leaves of your plants.
Water;
After all your lime and fertilizer for turf and shrubs has been applied it is best to water deeply making sure that all lime and or fertilizer gets into the soil adequately. With and in-ground sprinkler system 20-30 minutes is adequate. Do not allow water to pool or run off. If you see this happening, you have watered enough and you can stop! Remember, too much water is just as bad as not enough!!
In 1-2 weeks your lawn and shrubs will begin to really green up and get growing!
Spring weed control;
For spring weed control I like to use 19-3-7 Pre M, mixed with Atrazine for both pre and post emergent broadleaf weed control applied at 5 lbs per 1,000 sq feet of turf. This gets weeds that are about to emerge and ones that have already begun to poke through. Contact Lesco for the chemicals they recommend for your specific weeds. If you have not identified the weeds you have, do that first. No sense in treating for weeds you don’t have and not treating for the ones you do have. (Refer to Warm Season Turfgrass Weeds Vol. 1) for identification of weeds.
Fire Ant Control;
Varsity, Over N Out, Amdro, MaxForce…any broadcast ready fire ant treatment (bait) will work. You will want to broadcast the chemical COMPLETELY over all turf and beds. This will apply a barrier to your property and help keep your fire ant issues to a low roar. Depending on the amount of ants you had the previous year, you will see a dramatic decrease in your ant population using this method. It may take a full season to get your fire ants 100% in-check.
Mound Treatment;
Once you broadcast your entire property, it’s time to spot treat individual mounds you can see. I like to use Talstar F, however you can use Lescophate, or Acephate (all available from Lesco). It may smell bad, but it does the trick. Follow label directions on whatever chemical you are using, and over dosing will not help. Follow mixing, use, application and disposal directions printed on the label.
Broadcast only once in the spring, however the first season of using this program, spot treat mounds every time you see them. After a full year of using this system you WILL see a HUGE decrease the following spring. If you have a really bad infestation, you may need to broadcast again in the fall but I’ll post when it’s time for that.
Post any questions if you have them!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
April 7th, 2009 at 11:20 am
Today (04/07/09) it is 48 degrees out, this is why you wait until after April 15th to fertilize. It’s just too stressful for turf to have all that nitrogen applied causing a growth spurt, only to be hit with cold weather which tells the grass to stop growing. Welcome to South Carolina, if you don’t like the weather, wait a minute! Hard to believe that only yesterday it was 70 degrees.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
April 7th, 2009 at 4:22 pm
I recently bought a house down here and am new to taking care of a real lawn. I am also from Wisconsin, so everything here is so different. What are all the 16-4-8 and 10-10-10 numbers and what do they mean? How do I know what I need to use?
WorleyBird
April 7th, 2009 at 8:30 pm
WorleyBird;
10-10-10 and 16-4-8 are types of fertilizers. The numbers are in this order; N-P-K. This term refers to the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in fertilizers.
It is always expressed as N-P-K. For example, a fertilizer labeled as 16-4-8 has 16% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, and 8% potassium, and so on as with 10-10-10 etc.
To determine what you need, take a soil sample into the Clemson University Extension Service in your area. I have put up a link to the video under links/Soil Sampling on the right hand side on the website so that you can get a better understanding of how to take a soil sample the right way. Once you have your results, you will know what fertilizer to buy and how much you will need. I have directions on how to measure your yard for square footage posted above as well.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
April 10th, 2009 at 9:21 pm
FANTASTIC!
April 11th, 2009 at 12:07 pm
Shichketzet;
Thanks! I just hope this helps some folks. I know the biggest problem most homeowners have is when to apply what. Hopefully this schedule will help!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
April 30th, 2009 at 9:48 am
I am in the process of trying to get a calendar installed on the site. I think that will make it much easier for everyone to just click the MONTH and see all the applications that should be performed when.
Until then…The Moles are Back!!!
It is now time to Treat you turf and beds for white grubs. White grubs are Beetle Larvae that are now eating your grass roots, and attracting unwanted attention from moles. Moles can tunnel up to 1 mile per night, so they can cause a lot of turf damage trying to dine on their favorite food. If you get rid of the grubs, the moles will look elsewhere for food. Contact Lesco for the chemical they are recommending now to combat these pesky critters. Mole traps are expensive and do not work all that well. Just treat for the grubs and you can “kill 2 birds with 1 stone”.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
May 3rd, 2009 at 12:33 am
Wow, now this is what I like! Keep up the good work!
May 15th, 2009 at 8:30 am
Thankies!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
May 29th, 2009 at 5:49 pm
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June 17th, 2009 at 12:08 am
I had read about a few of these things on other sites but they didn’t go into as much detail. Thanks for the posts.
June 17th, 2009 at 11:54 am
I will be going into more detail once I get my calendar installed. I have not found one that does all I want it to do….yet…but I will.
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
June 24th, 2009 at 5:32 am
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http://howtomakecompost.info
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August 3rd, 2009 at 11:44 am
Margaret:
Thanks for the post and link to your site. You have some great info on composting using different methods. I think my readers will find that interesting!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
August 6th, 2009 at 5:26 pm
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August 9th, 2009 at 5:44 am
I am so impressed I had to save it so I continuosly go back and read things I may have skimmed
August 24th, 2009 at 4:07 pm
Ok so I have been a bit bogged down here to get a calendar posted or any new articles. I’m really sorry. I have had some issues with elderly parents and have just been tied up. I will try and get my schedule smoothed out and get some things posted for you all.
BTW in the Midlands of SC August 15th was the deadline for fertilization of turf and shrubs before the Fall/Winter season arrives. If you missed it, go ahead and get it done now. We are not much past, and it should be fine if you get it done this week…or by the week end at least. Sorry for the tardiness!
Jodi
TurfGal~Happiness by the Yard!
September 22nd, 2009 at 9:41 am
Fall is on the way here! Yay cooler day-time temperatures and cooler nights. Many people are thinking about planting fall bulbs and getting seasonal fall color put in their landscapes. Just don’t forget your grass!
If you were following the turf rules, you last fertilized in early August based on your soil test results, and that’s really all you need to do to keep your grass fed over the winter months. However, the fall weeds are coming now, so the use of Pre and Post emergent weed control for fall and winter weeds such as wild onion is advised. Identify the weeds you have as soon as possible so that you can begin treating them.
If you want a green looking lush lawn over the winter months, most of you know that I am not a huge advocate of over-seeding with winter rye. Anytime you bring in seed, you have the potential to bring in weed content. Instead I recommend turf paint. Totally safe, non-toxic, photo-degradable, easily applied, relatively inexpensive and you don’t have to mow it. What’s not to like?
If you start applying your turf paint/colorant now, by the time winter dormancy hits, your yard will have been green and stayed green all year long. Your neighbors will be wondering what the heck you did, and how.
Make sure you are applying your pre/post emergent herbicides one time per month to keep winter weeds at bay. Follow all instructions and wear the appropriate PPE. Refresh your turf paint when it begins to fade. Simple as that!
Mid October, or after our first HARD frost will start the heavy pruning and tree planting season, so get a jump on your turf now while you still have time. Bed cleaning, gutter maintenance and pruning should take a good chunk of your yard time in October so don’t wait!
As always, post your questions, should you have any, regarding weed identification, application of turf paint, etc. I’ll be happy to answer them.
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard
September 29th, 2009 at 12:17 pm
Are you a professional journalist? You write very well.
October 1st, 2009 at 7:56 am
Kouba:
No, I am not a professional journalist. I did however go heavy on the English and creative writing in college classes when I majored in advertising. Glad to see it’s paying off.
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard
As an aside, Marty @ Oasis will be offering fall cleanup services to his clients and mine in the greater Columbia area. 1-803-622-2038 (mobile) or 1-803-790-1216 (Office) is the way to reach him to discuss and schedule services not covered in your contracts!
• Leaf and pine straw removal
• Re-establish bed lines
• Prune shrubbery
• Plant fall flowers
• Add fresh pine straw and mulch
• Clean gutters
• Blow off roofs
• Irrigation repairs
• Low voltage lighting installation and repairs
Services Starting at $45!
October 9th, 2009 at 4:04 am
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November 30th, 2009 at 2:28 am
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December 1st, 2009 at 10:51 am
Ahhhh, the leaves are falling…and falling….and falling!
By now, most of your trees are pretty much devoid of leaves. The deciduous ones anyway. The leaves need to be removed out of shrubs, plants and grass to avoid mildew related problems. If you compost, this is great fodder for your pile, if you don’t, a good option is to mulch the leaves well and put them in your beds for added nutrients and root protection. You just need to get them off of your grass and out of the centers of plants such as Sago palms, among others. The decaying leaves can wreak real havoc as they break down over the winter months causing problems in the spring such as disease, fungus and growth inhibiting.
Winter weeds are on the rise! Literally. The most common here is wild onion. Identify what you have and select the appropriate chemical. If you need help, please just ask me!!!
Over applying the wrong chemical is not a good thing. You will not get the results you want and may do harm to kids, pets or the environment. Be sure you are treating the right weed with the right chemical to avoid harmful situations. If you are unsure, just ask, it’s what I’m here for!
Happy Holidays and Happy Gardening!
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard
December 12th, 2009 at 2:58 pm
I added your blog to bookmarks. And i’ll read your articles more often!
December 19th, 2009 at 7:06 am
Great article . Will definitely apply it to my blog.Thanks.
December 25th, 2009 at 11:51 pm
Great article . Will link it to my site.Thanks.
January 12th, 2010 at 12:13 pm
Gutter cleaning;
If you have gutters on your home, please do not forget to keep them cleaned out. If they get full of leaves, the water just fills them and runs over the sides. The water that pours over them can be devastating to plants and shrubbery around your home or office causing soil and mulch erosion and severe over-watering, not to mention the damage it can do to your home or office foundation. Marty @ Oasis is offering gutter cleanings as well as other services to keep your home or office in tip-top shape this winter!
Call Marty @ Oasis today to schedule your fall/winter services!!
1-803-622-2038 (mobile) or 1-803-790-1216 (Office) is the way to reach him to discuss and schedule services not covered in your contracts!
• Leaf and pine straw removal
• Re-establish bed lines
• Prune shrubbery
• Plant fall flowers
• Add fresh pine straw and mulch
• Clean gutters
• Blow off roofs
• Irrigation repairs
• Low voltage lighting installation and repairs
Services Starting at $45!
January 21st, 2010 at 12:30 pm
The weather is beginning to warm up, finally! It’s still raining a good bit, but now is the time to get out your first application of “spring” pre-emergent herbicides.
The rain and few good days of sunshine is all it will take to wake up all the lovely spring weeds, so getting a jump on it now will save you hours of individual weed attention later. Contact Robbie at Lesco (link on the right) for your Pre-M needs. Follow all guidelines for application and be safe! If you have questions regarding spreader or sprayer calibrations, just call the office or send me an email..or as usual, post on the site. Spring is almost upon us and the more of a head start you can get on those pesky weeds, the better.
If you have not had your soil tested in the last year, I suggest taking samples now before spring planting season is upon us. I have a link posted on the right for sampling instructions as well as locations of Clemson Extension Offices. If you don’t have time to sample, post on the site or drop me an email and I can schedule a sampling appointment for you! Sampling labor rates vary depending on the size of your property and number of bed/planting areas to be sampled.
Let me know what I can do to help you get ready for Spring!
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard
January 30th, 2010 at 7:17 pm
Thousands of people get hurt some badly every year cleaning their gutters and by having a good gutter guard will help keep you on the ground instead of on the ladder and out of the hospital. Gutter protection is very cost effective compared to the cost having your home waterproofed would be.
January 31st, 2010 at 1:50 pm
I must agree with ya but there are many ways to protect your home from damage. Gutter Guards are a easy solution to problems associated with clogged gutters. Gutter protection is very cost effective compared to the cost having your house waterproofed would be.
February 2nd, 2010 at 12:45 am
I also agree with what was said earlier but there are many ways to save and protect yourself and your home. Gutter Protection is an easy solution to problems associated with gutters that stop flowing because of clogs. Gutter guards are very cost effective compared to the cost having your house waterproofed would be.
February 7th, 2010 at 1:33 pm
I agree. Most people here do not even have gutters on their homes, or if they do, only on a few select sections of roofing. However, if they have any gutters at all on their homes, I completely agree that gutter guards are the safest, most economically sound way to go. Saves you hours of cleaning hassles and is much safer.
If you don’t have gutter guards, hiring a professional, if you can afford it, is the next best thing. Takes all the danger of falling out of the mix.
Not only that, but with the sandy soil that’s so common here waterproofing your home, not to mention sinking piers and cracks in walls/foundations is another good reason for gutter guards. This small addition will save you thousands in the long run!
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard
February 21st, 2010 at 2:29 am
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February 21st, 2010 at 5:31 pm
ohhh great tips.
March 9th, 2010 at 12:11 pm
Spring is just around the corner! If you have not gotten your yearly soil test done, do it soon. You want to get the results back so you can bi-directionally deep core aerate and apply lime, gypsum or whatever the report tells you. If you do this now, it gives you ample time for the chemicals to get down into your soil preparing it for fertilization after April 15th!
As always, if you have questions about taking a soil sample, interpreting Clemson test results, spreader/sprayer calibrations or chemical application. PLEASE post. Answering your questions…It’s what I do!!
Also, I have been in and out of the office a good bit soil sampling. If you need help, just call the office, leave a message and I’ll call you back and schedule a visit! (You can also email me) I got a great new sampling auger for Spring 2010, and it makes the sample taking MUCH faster than it has been in the past.
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard
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March 27th, 2010 at 11:41 am
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April 5th, 2010 at 9:36 am
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May 11th, 2010 at 3:39 pm
My garden consists of nice shrubs and moss in-between large stones. The critters seems to like to dig up the moss in search of grubs. I’ve tried chemicals to kill the grubs, but they dig us up nonetheless. I have a trap and catch them and have animal control relocate them, but we live somewhat close to the mountains outside of Los Angeles and there is a steady stream of raccoons, skunks and possum.
Has anyone had good luck with fox urine? I’ve tried it and can’t say that it worked well. We’ve also tried cayenne pepper applications, which work for a few days until the sprinklers soak the garden and the pepper is washed away. Plus, the pepper turns the green moss red.
Thoughts?
May 11th, 2010 at 10:48 pm
Bogeymaker;
Off hand I can think of several things to try before you drag out a shotgun. I have never used fox urine, but I have 3 dogs and their urine repels nothing!. LOL
1. There is a wonderful company called “I Must Garden“. They sell all sorts of organic repellents. I have several clients who swear by them for keeping rabbits out of veggie gardens.
2. I’ve heard mothballs work. Place them randomly in the areas the critters are frequenting.
3. There is a product that is a rubber mat of sort with spikes. It is designed to keep cats out of the garden. I have no idea if it works or where to get it in your area. Try Google-ing it and see if you can find it.
Hope that helps, let me know!
Jodi
~Turfgal~Happiness by the Yard